Important Note: It is important to understand that all trips to Nepal are self funded and no money
donated to help the children will be used for travel expenses incurred by organization staff. This is explicitly
specified in the bylaws of the organization.
In 2014 I returned to Khandbari for the 3rd time. By now I was very connected with many of
the children and also knowledgeable of their family backgrounds. The primary purpose of
this trip was to reunite some of the children with family members.
A number of exciting things happened during the year before I
traveled.
First was locating Rabin’s younger sister. Tejanath went to
Biratnagar to check the location where he believed Rabin’s
sister to be. He returned unsuccessful. We talked about getting
police involved as I was very worried if she had been in
Biratnagar which is on the border with India and was no longer
there. Tejanath asked for time to follow some more leads and
came back that he had located her, staying with a cousin in
Kathmandu. A number of weeks later he traveled to Kathmandu and sent pictures of Susma,
Rabin’s sister.
Second good event was signing a deal with Kopila to fund her education beyond SLC. I was by
this time confident I could raise funds and wanted to make sure she had reason to pay
attention at school. We agreed she would study to be a
Community Medical Auxiliary (CMA) which is a 2 year course in
Khandbari. This course can be completed right after SLC
without the need for +2.
The final good news was moving Nabin from his previous
school to Surya Boarding. Rabin and Kopila moved to the
government school for grade 8. There is a new Nepali rule that
if kids do regional standardized grade 8 exams in a private
school they are no longer eligible for further government
scholarships or education assistance. Since Rabin had vacated his free spot at Surya I
organized for Nabin to move to that school.
The main goal for my 2014 trip was to reunite some of the children with family. I knew Rabin
had his younger sister in Kathmandu, an older sister in Dharan and an older brother in
Biratnagar. I arranged for myself and Tejanath to take Rabin on a tour to meet his family. As
the trip grew close we got word that his sister would come to Khandbari for Dashain so the
roadtrip was reduced to Dharan and Biratnagar. It was also arranged that we would bring
Sandhya to a brother living near Num and Kopila to find her father in Bahrabise. I also
planned to be in Khandbari during the Dashain festivities.
I arrived in Kathmandu and as is usual now I was met at the airport by Devraj. We dropped
my bags at the hotel and went for Tongba, the Nepali version of beer. The next day I went to
the domestic terminal in Kathmandu to catch my flight to Tumlingtar.
There were two buses waiting to take passengers to the small planes
out on the tarmac, one flight going to Tumlingtar and one to Pokhara. I
jumped on the Tumlingtar bus and a Nepali lady came to correct me
and point me to the Pokhara bus. She was surprised that I was actually
going to Tumlingtar and we got talking. After a few minutes I learned
she was the mother looking after Rabin’s sister and that Susma was on
this same flight. It was great to see how happy and well looked after
Susma was and all this before they knew my connection.
I arrived in Kathmandu and went over to the house that evening to see
the kids. I had to fulfill my promise of bringing Sundar chocolate. He
was not at the house when I arrived but when returned he greeted me
with a huge smile.
The next morning myself and Tejanath met 5 of the older kids
and we set out for a 4 day trek to meet Sandhya’s brother and
Kopila’s father. We met them at the top of the town and I was
surprised to see Rabin wasn’t carrying any sort of pack and
some of the others had small day packs. I had a pretty heavy
backpack with sleeping bag/mat, first aid kit, spare clothes,
etc... I asked Rabin about what he brought and he said he
was sharing a pack with Sammar and all he brought was a
pullover. I asked about raingear (it was still monsoon) and he said no because all the
umbrellas at the house were broken. We stopped at the next
town and I got each of the kids an umbrella and a
toothbrush.
That day we walked for about 8 hours. From Khandbari we
followed the Num road, stopping at Chichilla for lunch and
then a few more hours of walking to Sagrati. We arrived at
the house where Sandhya’s brother is staying late in the
evening. Just as we arrived
the weather broke and heavy rain was soon followed by
strong wind. All I was thinking was how lucky we were to be
indoors because umbrellas would have done little in that
weather. We had to seal all the doors and windows in the
house but rain was still blown in. The kids
huddled up in their pullovers but were still
cold. That night we played caroom and
chess and talked well into the evening.
Sandhya’s brother had been placed in an orphanage in Kathmandu that
turned out to be very corrupt. He left and made his own way for a while
but is now married and living in a house owned by his uncle. It was great to
see how happy Sandhya was spending time with her brother.
The next day we left Sandhya to spend Dashain with her brother and the
rest of us walked towards Bahrabise. They walked with us for the first part
of the trail as far as Matsya Pokhari.
The trail to Bahrabise was long and difficult. We were
climbing to ridge lines and dropping to valleys all day. There
were no roads and virtually no trails for much of the way. We
walked along rice paddy walls and stopped often to quiz
locals on the route. It was not raining but the trails were
steep, rocky and wet. On one benign section of flat ground I
slipped on a rock and hit the deck. As I fell one of my trekking
poles snapped. Santosh went running into the woods and
found me a walking stick to replace the trekking pole. Himself and Sammar then took it upon
themselves to look after me for the rest of the day. I regularly heard “ I’ll be your guide sir -
put your foot here..” In all it took us about 12 hours to get to Bahrabise. We were again lucky
that the rain stayed away while we were walking.
When we arrived in Bahrabise we found a nice hotel. I was pleasantly
surprised how good it was given that Bahrabise doesn’t see many
tourists. They served a good Dal Bhat and had fans in the rooms.
Tejanath went out around the town and found somebody who knew of
Kopila’s father and agreed to guide us
to his house the next day.
We were up early the following day to
walk to Kopila’s father’s house. As it
was a day trip I was happy to leave
most of the weight from my backpack
at the hotel. The trail was ‘interesting’ and got progressively
worse as we got more remote from the town. Near the
house we had to cross a river that had partially collapsed. A few lengths of bamboo were
used to make the bridge somewhat usable. Once we crossed the bridge we had to climb a
steep valley following very narrow paddy walls.
Kopila’s father had left Nepal and lived in India for a
number of years. We heard he returned to the Bahrabise
area and was remarried. He is now living in a small bamboo
hut with his new wife and a 2 year old child. The hut didn’t
even have mud on the walls and I couldn’t picture how the 2
year old could survive the winter in that environment.
Reuniting Kopila with her father wasn’t as successful as I
hoped. Without saying too much I thinks it’s ok to say he
wasn’t too interested in being part of her daily life. That
said I still think it was very important to track him down.
One of the bad laws in Nepal is that a father passes
citizenship down to his children. With Kopila now turning
16 she is at an age when she can get citizenship and she
will need that paperwork to complete a CMA education. Having contact with her father
should make that process much easier to complete.
We returned to Bahrabise and had Dal Bhat at the hotel. The following morning we stayed a
few hours to see the local market. The original plan was to hire a jeep from Bahrabise to
Khandbari but the monsoon had made the road impassable. The walk home was long, hot
and very steep in places. We left around noon and got back
around 9pm. I was constantly amazed at the fitness of the
kids and how much they enjoyed the opportunity to be out
and about.
Over the next few days we had quite a bit of relaxation
time. I brought Connect4 and the kids quickly figured it out.
I did learn not to play against Sangita as she is smarter
than me and learned quickly to beat me every time.
While in Khandbari I heard that Santosh’s mother lived
locally. The story I heard was that she was paralyzed and
couldn’t leave the house so his grandmother looks after
her. I went with Santosh one day to visit his mother. I don’t
believe she was paralyzed but was also not in a condition
to care for him. His mother and grandmother live in a small
shack on land that some neighbours let them use. I was
very happy to hear that Santosh went and stayed with his
mother for a few days during Dashain.
On a couple of days we went out to Chewa, Rabin’s home
village. On the first day Susma came with us and we went
to visit their aunt, uncle and cousins. It was nice to see his
family again. Rabin had been to Chewa a few times since
our first visit the previous year.
The next day we went back to Chewa
and Rabin’s cousin’s from Kathmandu
with whom Susma now stays also joined us. There was a cultural show
with singing and dancing but our primary motivation for the trip was to
play on the Charke Ping, a hand carved, human powered wooden ferris
wheel that is build for the Dashain festival. There was a big crowd
waiting to play on the wheel but we were well looked after by our local
friends.
While we were at Chewa Rafa and
Anthony came to meet us. Rafa is
from Spain and had spent 6 weeks in Khandbari
volunteering in local schools and at the orphanage. He
had since spent another 6 weeks traveling around Nepal
but returned for a few final days in Khandbari before
returning to Europe. We all celebrated Dashain together.
On the tenth day of Dashain is is customary to receive a
Tika from your elders. In the morning the children came to
Tejanath’s house and we all received Tikas from Tejanath. In the afternoon myself, Rafa,
Sundar and Rabin travelled to another uncle in Khandbari and received Tikas there also.
Whilst in Khandbari I talked to the family that had brought
Nabin to the welfare home many years earlier. They were
distant relatives of his. During that conversation I learned
Nabin had a sister living in Dharan, the same town where
Rabin’s sister lives and where we already had plans to
visit. That evening I met Nabin and talked him about his
sister. It turned out he didn’t even know she existed.
Nabin was extremely happy and excited to hear he is not
alone in the world. He spent the night repeating her name
and telling the other kids he has a sister.
I arranged with Nabin’s family that we would bring him to
Dharan and he could meet his sister and spend some time
with his family there. The next day I left Khandbari. Myself,
Tejanath, Rabin and Nabin took an 11 hour jeep trip to
Dharan (it should have been 6 hours but that’s another
story). First we met with Nabin’s sister and his cousins. We
left him spend a number of days with his family. We visited
his relatives to make sure all was going well and found him
very happy. His relatives were also very grateful.
We did also have a plan to go to Rabin’s sister’s house that day but
because of travel delays it got too late. Rabin’s sister came and met us in
Dharan and he went alone to spend the night with her. Rabin got to meet
his nephew and niece and was very happy to spend time with his sister.
Myself and Tejanath got a hotel in downtown Dharan. It was possibly the
worst hotel in all of Nepal with mould on the walls and filth in the
bathroom.
The next day we took a microbus from Dharan to Biratnagar.
Rabin’s brother was taken in by two school teachers in
Khandbari at the same time when Rabin was sent to the
orphanage. It is quite common for families in Nepal to take
in children in return for them working in the house. That
couple moved to Biratnagar, on the border with India, a year
later. When we got to Biratnagar Sabin met us at the bus
park. Myself and Tejanath booked into a hotel and then we
all went to the house where Rabin’s brother lives and works.
Although Sabin has to work in the house he does go to school during the day. At the time he
had completed his school leaving certificate (SLC) and was studying in +2.
We spent 2 days in Biratnagar so that Rabin had some time with his brother. I was quite
surprised when Rabin arrived back at my hotel the first morning. Although Rabin could spend
the night with his brother, he was still required to work in the house during the day.
On the 2nd day I took a flight from Biratnagar to Kathmandu to return home. Rabin and
Tejanath went to collect Nabin from his relations and they all took the jeep back to
Khandbari.
All Photographs (c) Michael Fingleton